I was resurrecting a 2003 GT Palomar and discovered the rear derailleur cable was frayed back into the cable housing. When I went searching for a single cable, I found that, if you could find a single cable, it sold for as much as a 6 or 10 pack. Which was something I didn't want or need.Out of frustration I did a search for shifters and these popped up. For the price it was a done deal.Worst case scenario, if I didn't like the shifters, I'd use the cables that came with them on my old shifters.The bike's stock set up was SRAM Grip Shifters. As you can see in the first photo, these are almost identical. The body is the same, the mounting is the same ( a single 4mm hex head set screw). The only differences are that the rubber is softer and has a different pattern. In my opinion they are actually a little better as they twist easier/smoother, but are still "snappy".The cables were more than long enough and it took about 45 minutes to replace both shifters, dial in the derailleurs, take a test ride, then take a photo of the end result.For me these are 5 star across the board unless the shifters or cables fail early. These twist much easier than the stock shifters, especially after I got the drive train dialed in.I also compared the Microshift to Shimano Revoshift on the the same drive train, Shimano Acera 7 speed rear and Altus 3 speed front.The Microshift has a "snappy" sound and feel when you shift while the Revoshift has a smoother and refined feel. The Microshift is also a more compact build, with no shift indicator windows. Both easily shift the three speed chain rings and 7 speed freewheel individually or the entire range with a twist of the wrist. The Microshift does feel like it requires less wrist movement to go from 1-7 or 7-1 in one shift.After playing with the Microshift and Revoshift, I think you'll be happy with either one on a Shimano drive train.Personally, I would put the Microshift on a bicycle that spends more time on trails as the shifting seems quicker and locked in, with their sharp clicks. They seem to be a simpler design, that may be easier to service and take more abuse when trail riding. I would also use these on a kids bike due to how they would get used/abused.I do have some suggestions for people that may be considering grip shifters...If you find yourself sucked into the "Trigger vs. Grip Shift debate", I would recommend that you think about how you use your bike and what you are comfortable with. You can convert from one to the other if the shifters are compatible with your drive train.In my case, the GT spends most of it's time on country back roads with hills. Many times, I drop gears to climb a hill, go a short distance, then wind the front crank from the first to third chain ring and dump the freewheel from 1-7 (each with a twist of the shifters) to accelerate down a decline, before dropping gears up the next hill. Trigger shifters would not allow me to shift a whole chain ring, or freewheel like this.I've also never owned a bike with triggers and am comfortable with grip shifters.For me, the biggest downside of a grip shifter is trying to find quality grips for dual grip shifters on my 620mm bars. Most that are available have one long grip and one short grip for a single grip shift. They also seem to be geared more to a smaller hand. I have learned that if you are careful, ODI Rogue grips can be shortened with a saw, utility knife and file and that is what I currently run.If you do not have a bicycle stand, protect your shifters and seat when you turn your bike upside down for servicing. Otherwise you will scratch and damage whatever grip shifter you have, think plastic against asphalt, concrete etc. Unfortunately it took me years to realize this one little thing.There are negative reviews about these not shifting the gears properly after being installed. Do a search for "bicycle derailleur adjustment". An excellent video by Park Tool should pop up and explain how to set the derailleurs and shifting index.Coming from a generation where we just pulled the cables tight on multi speed, friction shift bikes and "felt for gears" with the shifters, I did not know how indexed shifting actually worked. Now I understand that there is cable tension, H/L settings on both derailleurs and an index to be adjusted. In the end, the GT I resurrected shifts so smoothly that all you hear is the click of the grip shifter.Do a search of your current brand of shifters and derailleurs. There may be incompatibility in the indexing on some brands and types. Ironically in my case, I was going to spend more to replace my SRAM with SRAM. However, it turned out that the SRAM replacements I was looking at were incompatible with the the drive train on the GT.Use a small screwdriver or allen wrench to lightly pry your handgrip from the handlebar and pour a little rubbing alcohol in the opening between the grip and the bar. Remove the screwdriver or allen wrench, twist the grip and it should slide off easily. Use a little alcohol to put the grips back on too.Use WD40 or a de-greaser to clean the derailleurs. After allowing them to dry thoroughly, lubricate the pivot points and work it in ( I used a few drops of WD 40 wet chain lube on the pivot points, and a little synthetic grease on the jockey wheel bushings). You'd be amazed how much smoother they operate (which will help when you adjust them). Mine loosened up so much that I had to reset the L and H settings.Order some cable crimp ends and new housings as these shifters do not come with either. Amazon has a plastic lined kit by Schwinn that I've used in the past that is very reasonable, and will give you spare cables.Have a set of metric allen wrenches and a small phillips head screw driver on hand as that will probably be all that you need to do the job.Good luck and ride safe.